At Dakmatter, formulation lives at the intersection of cosmetic chemistry and natural pharmacology. Ingredients are selected not for trend value, but for biochemical intelligence - how they interact with human biology, support the microbiome, and behave over time within a living system.
In collaboration with the botanical specialist farmers and formulators at natural cosmetic brand HUMLE, who grow their own potent natural hobs, we explore two medicinal plants that anchor our respective formulations: Red Willow Bark (Salix purpurea), central to Dakmatter’s scalp-first science, and Hops (Humulus lupulus), the cornerstone of HUMLE’s skin-focused care.
These potent botanicals have been utilised in traditional medicine for thousands of years, modern chromatographic analysis reveals why they remain superior to many synthetic alternatives..
Ancient plants — examined through a modern lens.
Red Willow Bark: Exfoliation That Thinks Before It Acts
Synthetic salicylic acid acts immediately and forcefully.
While effective, this single-pathway action can disrupt lipids, stress the microbiome, and provoke rebound sensitivity. Red Willow Bark operates differently.
Rich in salicin, it functions as a biological precursor. Once applied, salicin relies on the scalp’s own enzymatic activity to gradually convert into salicylic acid. This creates a time-released exfoliation, loosening dead cells and sebum without triggering acute inflammation or dehydration.
Equally important is what comes with salicin. Willow bark contains a complex polyphenolic matrix, including flavonoids such as quercetin and kaempferol, which contribute antioxidant and calming support - benefits lost when working with isolated synthetic molecules.
Selective antimicrobial behaviour further supports scalp balance by discouraging harmful microbial dominance while respecting beneficial flora. Rather than suppressing symptoms, willow bark helps restore equilibrium.
The Potency of Nature
Hops: Structural and Hormonal Support for the Skin
Their potency lies in the lupulin glands, rich in humulones and lupulones — bitter acids with calming and purifying properties that help reinforce a compromised skin barrier.
The most studied compound, xanthohumol, offers a key insight: Ageing is driven as much by enzymatic breakdown as by collagen loss.
Xanthohumol inhibits elastase, the enzyme responsible for degrading elastin - the protein that gives skin its resilience and “snap”. By slowing this degradation, hops help preserve structure rather than forcing stimulation.
Hops also contain phyto-compounds relevant for hormonally changing skin, as well as volatile oils traditionally associated with calming effects.
Applied topically, this translates into reduced sensory irritation and a more settled skin environment.
The Unfinished Puzzle of Medicinal Plants
There is a critical scientific reality we must acknowledge: In nature: efficacy rarely comes from one molecule acting alone.
Even today, we do not fully understand how the hundreds of molecules within medicinal plants interact. Advanced analytical methods can identify and isolate individual compounds, yet the synergistic behaviour - how flavonoids, acids, terpenes, sugars, and phenolics influence each other biologically - remains only partially mapped.
This is where a fundamental difference emerges:
- Synthetic lab-made actives are designed to deliver one or two clearly defined effects.
- Medicinal plants operate as multi-target systems, influencing several biological pathways simultaneously—often with greater tolerance.
What we cannot yet fully quantify may be exactly what makes medicinal plants so effective. By preserving the full molecular architecture rather than stripping it down, botanical formulations can offer layered benefits that synthetic chemistry still struggles to replicate.
Why the Dakmatter × HUMLE Collaboration Matters
This partnership is grounded in a shared belief in the unadulterated power of organic raw materials. We recognise that the potency of a cosmetic product is directly linked to the vitality of its source.
By choosing organic raw materials, we are not just avoiding synthetic pesticides; we are selecting raw materials that have developed superior resilience and phytochemical density to survive in nature for thousands of years. Power that, with today's modern tech, can be harvested.
Dakmatter and HUMLE work on similar terrains - scalp and skin - and speak the same biological language. Both brands:
- Use natural/organic medicinal plants as functional bio-systems, not marketing symbols
- Prioritise microbiome compatibility and barrier respect
- Reject aggressive, single-mechanism solutions in favour of biological intelligence
Together, the collaboration highlights a shared philosophy: This is not about nostalgia for nature, nor about blind faith in the lab. This is forward thinking, recognising that the most advanced future solutions emerge when modern chemistry learns to listen to evolutionary wisdom.
Here is where you'll find HUMLE award-winning products.
Knowledge is power.
