Dry Scalp? Dry Hair? Not the Same Thing. 

Dry Scalp? Dry Hair? Not the Same Thing. 

Combatting Dry Hair and Scalp with Science

Dry scalp? Dry hair? They’re connected — but totally different. The key is treating each with precision, not guesswork.

Scalp First: Barrier Repair

A dry scalp usually signals barrier dysfunction. Look for ingredients that:

  • Attract water (humectants like Glycerin).
  • Reinforce lipid function (plant oils rich in linoleic acid).

Red Flag: If dryness comes with itching or tightness, it’s not just “lack of moisture”, it may be barrier breakdown or a scalp condition. Don't hesitate to contact your doctor or trichologist. 

Hair Shaft: Porosity-Aware Hydration

Dry hair, on the other hand, is usually about porosity. Damaged cuticles allow too much water in and out, making hair feel brittle and frizzy.

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Trehalose, polysaccharides, and fermented actives
 help bind and balance moisture inside the hair shaft.
Avoid over-reliance on film-forming silicones.

AHA-Moment: Why not fight dry hair with silicones? 

Film-forming silicones (like dimethicone, amodimethicone, cyclopentasiloxane) are well-documented to form a hydrophobic coating around the hair shaft. This coating:

  • Reduces water evaporation temporarily.
  • Increases smoothness and slip.
  • Protects against mechanical friction and heat.

What silicon don’t do:
Silicones don’t replenish the lipid layer (18-MEA) or fill structural gaps in the cuticle cortex. They’re occlusive, not restorative. So while they make hair feel less dry, they don’t biologically address the underlying causes of dryness (loss of natural lipids, protein damage, or porosity changes).
Shortly: Silicones mask dryness rather than fixing it. They’re useful for cosmetic feel and protection, but they don’t “restore" what’s missing.


"PRO-TIP: Over-conditioning hair with silicone-rich products can make scalp dryness worse, because you’re sealing the fibre while ignoring the barrier. Treat the skin first, then the hair"


What to look for:

Healthy scalp and strong hair are connected — but need different science.

  • For the scalp: Barrier-supporting lipids and probiotic fermentations restore balance, calm irritation, and strengthen the microbiome.
  • For the hair: Trehalose, plant oils, and cuticle-compacting actives replenish lost 18-MEA, seal porosity, and reduce static for smoother, more resilient strands.

🌿 Recommendations: A Science-First Rescue Routine

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10 Slip Wash Pro
 — A scalp-first cleanser enriched with extra lipids, designed to gently remove buildup while reinforcing scalp barrier integrity.

022 Hydro Mask Pro | Light — Weekly hydration to recompact cuticles, restore 18-MEA-like lipid behaviour, and fight frizz at the source

102 Saluron Gel — A soothing, hydrating treatment that calms irritation and delivers targeted humectants to support the scalp’s microbiome balance.

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Bottom Line

Dry scalp and dry hair aren’t the same problem - that’s good news.
Because when you treat them with the right science - barrier repair for the scalp, lipid replenishment and porosity-smart hydration for the hair - you stop chasing symptoms and start seeing real change. Healthy scalp, vibrant hair and long-term results.

Knowledge is power.

author
Jacky van Driel-Nguene
Medical Biochemist & Trichologist
author trichologyeurope.com

Science, teaching, and scalp health – my true passions! With a BSc in Medical Biochemistry and a Science Teacher qualification, I’ve taught worldwide. My love for hair science led me to become a Certified Trichologist, specialising in scalp health. When I'm not working as a co-founder of Dakmatter, I run Trichology Europe, a clinic in the heart of Amsterdam, where I combine medical science and education to help people overcome scalp concerns.